Uncommon grounds

Coffee has been banned as a creator of revolutionary sedition, vilified as the worst health-destroyer on earth and praised as the boon of mankind. Its history provides a window through which to view broader themes of colonialism and culture clash, the rise of mass production, modern-day media and marketing, women's issues and international commodity schemes. It also illustrates how an entire industry can lose focus, allowing upstart micro-roasters to reclaim quality and profits. Mark Pendergrast enlivens his scrupulously researched history with anecdotes, eccentric characters and period…